You can find this year’s prizes, awards, and jury’s statements here: aalto.fashion

NÄYTÖS21 AWARD
Winner: Jenny Hytönen (BA)

An international jury has decided upon the winner of the Näytös 21 Award.

The members of the jury were:
Tamara Rothstein, London based Stylist
Heikki Salonen, Creative Director MM6 Maison Margiela
Kaisa Kinnunen, Studio Show Manager Celine

Statement of the jury: This work has truly impressed us. It’s material choices are well balanced between heavy, even rough materials and more delicate see-through meshes, all of which manipulated beautifully, emphasizing their characters. The silhouette is strong with attitude, simultaneously seemingly aggressive and yet poetic. The work is very mature and seems personal. We are all really looking forward to seeing and following the designer’s next steps.

MARIMEKKO AWARD
Winner: Sofia Ilmonen (MA)

Jury:
Satu Maaranen, Head Designer Marimekko

FISKARS AWARD
Winner: Juha Vehmaanperä (MA)

Jury:
Vesa Kemppainen, Creative Content Manager Fiskars group
Petteri Masalin, Creative Design Lead Fiskars group
Marika Orkamo, Senior Vice President, Brand and Marketing Fiskars

SUOMEN TEKSTIILI JA MUOTI RY, STMJ AWARD
Winner: Sofia Ilmonen (MA)

Jury:
Tiina Alahuhta-Kasko, Marimekko
Noora Niinikoski, Nanso
Vanamo Korell, Zalando, Ruotsi
Ryoma Omuro, ITOCHU Textile Company, Japani
Marja-Liisa Niinikoski, Suomen Tekstiili & Muoti

The first set of PatternLab-created patterns can be seen on Kespro’s tableware products in the spring of 2021. The patterns Kesäpäivä by PL21 designer Berke Özkök and Yrttikimppu by PL21 designer Nora Bremer embellish Kespro’s new Menu products, such as plates, cups, and napkins.

”We had the pleasure to work on a design brief with Kespro and to design patterns for their paper tableware and durable tote bags”, says PatternLab21 designer and the project’s account manager Hilda Niemelä.

The aim of the PatternLab design brief project is to offer bespoke designs for clients in order to meet companies’ specific needs. During recent years, PatternLab has had successful design brief collaborations with Metsä-Serla, Stockmann, Blackmoda, Texmoda, and Lapuan Kankurit. The project with Kespro started in February 2020.

Kespro wanted to introduce new and fresh designs into the Menu collection of tableware products. Their aim was to have sustainability as the project’s core value: ”In collaboration with Aalto University, we had the opportunity to emphasize social responsibility by providing the students with new experiences in collaboration with a company, and contribute to an additional step in their career path”, states Marko Rönnblad, purchasing and sales manager from Kespro.

Yrttikimppu by Nora Bremer

In the spring of 2021, PatternLab21 designers presented their three collection themes and moodboards to Kespro’s product managers Nina Jumppanen and Liisa Puhakka. Kespro found the theme Inherited Inspiration to be the most interesting and the most suitable for them.

”Nina and Liisa also told us about their brand’s sustainability goals and what kind of values they have at Kespro. After the first meeting, we started to sketch and create pattern ideas”, Hilda describes the beginning of the process.

”Born and raised in the megacity of Istanbul, I am touched by Finnish city life, which is close to nature. These beautiful flowers popped up in my neighbourhood after a long Finnish winter. I observed nature around me by taking photos and sketching, and was inspired to draw this pattern.” – Berke Özkök, PatternLab21 designer

Kesäpäivä by Berke Özkök

Along with the design brief projects, the aim of PatternLab is to create a large, professional surface design collection. The yearly sales collection consists of designs in three different themes, which all have their own moods, colour palettes, and sources of inspiration.

In 2020, the PatternLab21 group created three themes for their upcoming pattern collections: Inherited Inspiration, No Man’s Land and Peculiar Memories. Building a narrative around the patterns also helps with presenting design ideas to clients in design brief projects.

“The narrative became an extremely important tool for us. The second meeting with the client was already held online instead of in-person, and this was a new way to work for all of us. We had four meetings together, where we presented our design ideas, discussed their visuality, and received valuable feedback from the client on how to develop our designs further to best fit their products”, says Hilda.

PL21 moodboards and colour palettes: Inherited Inspiration, No Man’s Land and Peculiar Memories

The collaboration with Kespro exceeded all expectations. In the beginning of the project, Kespro stated that they were looking for four pattern designs – but they ended up selecting eight in the end.

”We expressed and discussed our needs regarding the pattern styles and colors, after which PatternLab offered us versatile design ideas. Out of these, we selected the patterns which best suited our products. Now we have a bunch of patterns ready for upcoming seasons”, says Liisa.

Despite the meetings having to be held online, the communication between Kespro and PatternLab was easy and everybody was pleased with the results. “This was a great learning experience for us, and we are excited that Kespro has already launched products with our patterns on them”, says Hilda.

According to Liisa Puhakka, Kespro are very happy with the collaboration as well: “The students put a lot of effort into their designs and were committed to the project. Our collaboration worked well and stuck to its agreed-upon schedule. And as a result, we got a lovely set of patterns!”.

PL21 designers: Iines Jakovlev, Minttumeri Hirsimaa, Mirka Larjomaa, Yun-Jung Hsieh, Ulla Vahteri, Santeri Mortti Valtanen, Berke Özkay Özkök, Julia Lehto, Nora Bremer, Anniina Korte and Hilda Niemelä. Photo: Mari Kaakkola

PATTERNLAB

PatternLab is a yearly textile and surface design project at Aalto University of Arts, Design and Architecture. PatternLab has been a stepping stone for many leading surface designers, collectives, and companies since 1999. The student-run team, which is supervised by professor Maarit Salolainen, is a professional-level company that sells patterns in Finland and international markets.

Check out PatternLab website and our newly released patterns on Instagram !

”At Aalto, in addition to creativity, we strive to feed our students’ independent ability to create their own vision and original look. Luhta recognised this strength and was bold to elaborate the idea and concept of one of our students. This is a great new way to collaborate with talented young designers”, says Professor of Fashion Pirjo Hirvonen.

”Luhta is one of the largest employers of fashion designers in Finland. Dialogue and collaboration with our country’s top schools has always been a priority to us. Due to the pandemic, it has been unsure whether the Tokyo games will be organised, so at this point we’re very excited to show the fruits of this collaboration to the whole sporting world”,  says Icepeak Brand manager Katja Laurema.

Luhta is the official supplier for the Finnish Olympic team and is responsible for the team’s entire apparel, from training, warming up to freetime and networking attire. This year’s concept is minimalistic yet energetic, linking the traditions of Finnish design to the athletic nature of active wear. The collection is also very suited to the host country Japan’s aesthetics.

”When designing this apparel, it was necessary to take into account the demands of international top-level sports as well as the special conditions of Tokyo. This collection is on the pulse of both our athletes and the zeitgeist”, says Leena Paavolainen, Deputy Director of the High Performance Unit and Games Preparations Director at the Finnish Olympic Committee. ”The clothes have an effect on our athletes. This collection is part of Finland’s team brand and each one of our athletes are carrying these garments with pride.”

Source: Aalto News

‘Getting to the finals of the competition is a great thing! I’m a bit puzzled, though. It’ll be great to be able to present my work to a larger audience and represent Aalto University’, Ilmonen describes, certainly catching the feelings of all the finalists.

The annual Festival International de Mode & de Photographie Hyères is one of the most prestigious design competitions in the world, but last year it was not held due to a pandemic. The 36th Hyères Festival will be held from 14 to 17 October. The jury consists of the most renowned international influencers in the field. This year, the jury will be chaired by Louise Trotter, creative director at Lacoste, who sees the finalists as very diverse.

The main idea of ​​Sofia Ilmonen’s collection ‘Same Same but Different’ is modularity and the versatility it brings. Photo: Juho Huttunen

Arttu Åfeldt merges classic menswear with game aesthetics and school uniforms. Arttu Åfeldt’s collection.

Venla Elonsalo examines the emotional relationship between a soft toy and a person.  Photo: Inga-Stina Heikkinen

According to fashion design professor Pirjo Hirvonen, with this year’s finalists it is a lot of quality: the focus is on clothing, quality and on how they fit. ‘What all our three students’ collections have in common is their overall quality and strong control  of shape, as well as strong zoning and structural skills in clothing, combined with a personal view of fashion’, says Hirvonen.

Read more on how quality is emphasized in the finalists’ collections:

Three Aalto fashion students again in the Hyères finals

Hyères-finaalissa jälleen kolme Aallon muodin opiskelijaa

Read more: Aalto News and CEOWORLD Magazine

Related news: Aalto University’s fashion studies are enhanced by a strong expertise in textiles – Combining artistic and technical design expertise in teaching is a unique concept worldwide.

Photo: Näytös19. Amina Saada’s Collection. Photo by Mikko Raskinen / Aalto University

The Woolmark Company and leading technical outdoor brand Helly Hansen announced the prize winners and the innovative concepts from the ten finalists’ of the Woolmark Performance Challenge 2020.

The Woolmark Performance Challenge 2020 brief invited participants to consider ocean racing and the harsh and demanding nature of the sport as the catalyst of their design process. The brief asked designers how they can contribute to the long-term health of the planet in designing performance garments with consideration for the outdoor environments.

In Bettina Blomstedt’s winning work, Merino wool is combined with advanced knitting technology.

Bettina started her research with sustainability in mind, asking: how can the inherent properties of Merino wool be utilised in sportswear, without adding any synthetic materials to the mix? Using her knowledge of advanced knitting technology and taking a look back at traditional techniques, her concept explores alternative ways of achieving sportswear performance by enhancing the natural existing properties of Merino wool.

2020 Woolmark Performance Challenge Winner – Bettina Blomstedt

From over 1350 registered participants, ten finalists were shortlisted by The Woolmark Company and Helly Hansen. The Woolmark Performance Challenge entries are judged by a highly esteemed panel of judges.

Bettina Blomstedt Instagram

Photos Bettina Blomstedt

Video The Woolmark Company

Jury statement:

The 2021 winner of Designers’ Nest has designed a collection that impressed the jury on several levels: with visually striking silhouettes, accomplished tailoring, an elegant grasp of historic references and multifaceted fashion commentary. The collection is a thoughtfully executed take on making the impractical practical: taking its point of departure in Friman’s great grandfather, who had to flee a comfortable life of privilege during the Finnish civil war and establish a new life completely alone in Lapland, it imagines a 19th century noblewoman undertaking a similar journey.

Victorian grandiosity is seen through a lens of dressing for survival in the harshest temperatures, creating a tight angle on theatre versus practicality – a kind of time travel, where technologically advanced materials and utilitarian details cleverly rephrase the fin de siècle. In addition, Friman has taken a considered approach to working with recovered and recycled materials, showing a sensibility and awareness fitting of today’s society and the responsibility we as an industry have towards the environment.

Collection by Idaliina Friman

 

Arttu Åfeldt – Aalto University
Belinda Rasmussen – Royal Danish Academy
Emma Gudmundson – Swedish School of Textiles
Elina Äärelä – Aalto University
Idaliina Friman – Aalto University
Ines Kalliala – Aalto University
Kristian David – Swedish School of Textiles
Monika Colja – Swedish School of Textiles
Robin Söderholm – Beckmans College of Design
Sara Sofie Tallaksen – Oslo National Academy of the Arts

Designers’ Nest AW21

Idaliina Friman wins 50.000 DKK as early support of her work, a study trip to UEDA College of Fashion in Osaka, Japan, and a ceramic artwork created by Danish artist Karl Monies.

The internship at Bottega Veneta in Milan is offered to Arttu Åfeldt, a BA-graduate of Aalto University.

Collection by Arttu Åfeldt
In collaboration with the Swedish Art Museum, Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde, the joint Exhibition Prize goes to:
Elina Äärelä and Ines Kalliala (MA-graduates of Aalto University), Idaliina Friman, and Kristian David (BA graduate of the Swedish School of Textiles). The four designers will be featured in the exhibition Future Nordic Fashion, co-curated by Ane Lynge-Jorlén and Philip Warkander in collaboration with Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde.

Collection by Elina Äärelä

Collection by Ines Kalliala

The designer selected by Ida Petersson, Womenswear and Menswear Buying Director at Browns Fashion, will develop a sustainable collection for the retailer in collaboration with the The Bear Scouts and will be announced shortly.

All finalists receive a profile on the Paris-based platform Eyes on Talents that connects emerging designers with the establishment.

Designers’ Nest is supported by The Danish Arts Foundation, The Nordic Culture Fund, Kronprins Frederik og Kronprinsesse Marys Fond, Beckett-Fonden, Danmarks Nationalbanks Jubilæumsfond, Tuborgfondet, Clara Lachmanns Stiftelse and CIFF.

Members of the 2021 jury
Susanne Madsen, Fashion writer and Writer-at-large at Dazed
Mariasole Pastori, Talent Acquisition Expert at Bottega Veneta
Ida Petersson, Buying Director at Browns Fashion
Anders Sølvsten Thomsen, Stylist and creative consultant
Ane Lynge-Jorlén, Director at Designer’s Nest

EXPERIMENTAL TEXTILE DESIGN 2020 EXHIBITION

DATE: December 3, 2020 – January 15 (until 2 pm), 2021

PLACE: Väre, Exhibition Space FK Lobby, 2^nd floor

Designers

Sanna Ahonen, Noora Ainasoja, Anneli Auranen, Cynthia Blanchette, Sichun Dong, Francesco Furlan, Edith Kankkunen, Prajeen Kunawong, Aura Latva-Somppi, Jingting Ma, Jenna Mäkäräinen, Aida Matuseviciute, Tuulikki Peltonen, Ione Rawlins, Henna Salminen, Julia Strandman

Research and Concept Development, Experimental Samples, ENGARTs Project, Photo Workshop

Hanna-Kaisa Korolainen, Oldouz Moslemian, Tuomas Puttonen

Basic Knitting, Basic Printing, Woven Fabrics ­– Material and Structure

Aamu Salo, Hilkka-Maija Fagerlund, Maarit Salolainen, Tiina Paavilainen

Head Professors

Adj. Prof. Maarit Salolainen, 3D Surface Design and Textile Materials – Department of Design, Prof. Jouni Partanen, Advanced Production Methods – Department of Mechanical Engineering

THE VALUE OF BEAUTY

Francesco Furlan

Gazing one face between mirrors and tiles; Caressing one body with masks and cream; Perfuming, shampooing to later on shine; Preparing carefully for the misleading dream.

Glowing night gowns hit by the lights; Precise designs now being somewhat vague; Enthusiastic behaviors fomenting life; Vanishing efforts freshly been made.

Standing, reflecting this superfluity; Deluded between what was and what’s left; Don’t you just wonder the value of beauty? Don’t you reflect on the appeal that perplex?

CITY NOMADIC – SOIL TRAVELER

Sichun Dong

“Soil Traveler” takes soil as the first point of view, telling a story about soil and the sense of belonging.

This project explores the material diversity of soil and mixed media, and how it is intertwined with personal emotions and homeland feelings, encouraging viewers to rethink the interaction between individuals and soil and the value orientation of soil to personal identity.

ALIENATION: EXPERIMENT OF BREAKING HUMAN MIND

Jenna Mäkäräinen

Alienation is an artistic experiment on what happens to a human mind when society sets too many boundaries around it. Iron net structures and melted plastic tell a story of how the mind breaks into an organic liquid and releases itself from boundaries surrounding it. Reflecting on the human mind during the process and thereafter. They create an unrealistic space between two realities: your own and the world of others. A space where rules of society don’t apply and there is just alienation.

ENTRAPMENT IN FLUCTUATION

Aida Matuseviciute

The project reflects on nature’s ability to contain and release. Insect captured in amber and tree releasing resin, grass stuck in lava folds and magma coming out of volcano. Imprisonment that is created naturally was especially interesting to me. Dialogue by flexibility and entrapment was something that I wanted to capture.

This project further analyses how a stretchy material can be contained by modified surface and how it can transform material properties.

BLINDS

Ione Rawlins

“Blinds” is a visual study on the hidden and shadowed parts of life in contrast with what we illuminate. Light and shadow work to shape our vision of the world around us, both hiding and revealing new aspects of our day-to-day. With this project I seek to recreate the light and shadows cast by venetian blinds onto a wall. Projected stripes that move across a room and quietly envelope everything they touch. Inversely, I also play with the image of peeking through blinds as we gaze at the outside world. What glimpses we see of others’ lives are not the truth, but they are still beautiful and fascinating.

HYBRID LOVERS

Julia Strandman

“Hybrid Lovers” is a collection of textile art that studies the history of the oppression of womans’ bodies and sexuality. In the artworks, feminine creatures metamorphose into the monsters the patriarchal history has depicted them.

They leave genders and labels and become something more than a human, beautiful and monstrous. They become therianthropes and hybrids able to take revenge on their oppressors.

COMFORT: TEXTILE FOR MENTAL HEALTH

Edith Kankkunen & Jenna Mäkäräinen & Henna Salminen

“Comfort” aims to extend the comforting properties of a textile piece. It is an experiment on how a textile could work as a support system do deal with feelings of anxiety, stress and panic attacks. Elevated heartbeat pulse is usually one of the first symptoms that people suffer from when experiencing panic or anxiety attacks. The changing color of the textile acts as an alert system to notify the user about the rising pulse, so they are aware of the forthcoming and can act in time.

EXPERIMENTAL TEXTILE DESIGN 2020 EXHIBITION

DATE: December 3, 2020 – January 15 (until 2 pm), 2021

PLACE: Väre, Exhibition Space FK Lobby, 2^nd floor

Experimental Textile Design course:

In this course students are familiarized with traditional, new, and experimental textile materials and production methods. They gain an understanding of how to use textile materials and techniques as a form of expression. Students learn to manage creative processes resulting in innovative products and collections and recognize the new opportunities in the field of textiles related to neighbouring disciplines. Students without previous knowledge of textile techniques learn the basics of knits and knitwear, printed fabrics and/or woven fabrics within basic studio courses. The approach of this course is practice-led and explorative and relies on the personal research.

The ARTS students can take part in the multidisciplinary ENGARTs project within the course module. In this multidisciplinary project ENGARTs teams collaboratively work on projects combining science and technology with textile design practices. ENGARTs projects are facilitated and guided by department of engineering staff.

The ENGARTs project establishes an innovative and collaborative platform for students to merge technology and design and to explore new ways of developing experimental textiles, materials, and fabrication methods through research and concept development.

Elina Äärelä – FaCT, alumni

Ines Kalliala – FaCT, alumni

Idaliina Friman – FaCT

Arttu Åfeldt – Fashion BA

Designers’ Nest is a non-profit initiative that supports fashion talents from the Nordic countries in their early stages after graduation. It features graduate designers who show high levels of originality, creativity, craftsmanship and responsible design.

The ten finalists of 2021 have been selected by:

Sara Sozzani Maino – Deputy Editor-in-Chief Vogue Italia & Head of Vogue Talents

Olya Kuryshchuk – Editor-in-Chief & Founder, 1 Granary

Mariasole Pastori – Talent Acquisition Expert, Bottega Veneta

Janosch Mallwitz – Senior Designer, Dior Homme

Ida Petersson – Buying Director, Browns Fashion

Anders Sølvsten Thomsen – Creative Consultant and Stylist

Ane Lynge-Jorlén – Director, Designers’ Nest

Photo above: ‘Silent Voice’ by Elina Äärelä, Photo by Anna Äärelä